PARIS — Mustard runs deep in French culture. “My blood is boiling” is rendered in French by the expression “la moutarde me monte au nez,” or “the mustard is rising into my nose” — and as Bastille Day testifies, when that happens in France, the effect can be devastating. AsContinue Reading

PARIS — A couple decades ago France suffered a severe shock. A Spanish restaurant called El Bulli, on the Catalan coast north of Barcelona, led a culinary revolution so bold that French cuisine suddenly looked stilted, a self-satisfied tradition stuck in a cloying bed of butter and cream. In anContinue Reading